Saturday, October 28, 2017

Ninja Spies and Miles of Silk Thread

Did you know that the thread from a single silk cocoon is a mile long and that ninja spies used to transport the silk?

Don’t worry, I didn’t either until today.

As we turned off a bustling, very modern, street in Tokyo, we found ourselves in a picturesque courtyard from another era. Sheltering the gravel drive were grapevines bursting huge clusters of purple grapes, pushing against a low, rickety looking building.




As we stepped through the low threshold we were greeted by a rustic looking room where silk was being artistically dyed using the same techniques that have been used for centuries.






Long low wooden tables held lengths of silk waiting to be hand painted, tie dyed, or silk screened.




I was with a group from the embassy. A few people paid the extra fee to create a beautiful floral design with on black fabric. Artisans deftly instructed them how to coat a glue-like substance on the fabric to create the pattern. I was intrigued by the timelessness of the place and the photographer in me went a little crazy snapping pictures.








After completing the projects, we removed our shoes and were taken up a steep flight of stairs to a simple loft covered in tatami mats and low wooden benches. Yes, the mats were to sit on and the benches were to work at. I’m fully aware, but my knees disagreed with this plan and a couple of us defiantly sat on the benches.

Our instructor spoke only in Japanese, but fortunately a young woman in our group, named Sarah, translated for us. Via Sarah, our teacher explained that he and his family had been in the silk business for many years. He seemed excited to share his knowledge with us and eagerly launched into an explanation of silk kimono and the intricacies of silk and silk painting.



We were surprised when the instructor asked us how much fabric it took to make a kimono. I assumed he knew! Just kidding, but he wasn’t. He virtually lunged towards each person in the room demanding a guess! I started to fear he would keep making us guess until someone got it right.

It turns out it takes 13 meters to make one kimono. He continued this same pattern of interrogation with the width of the fabric, and the length of the thread in a cocoon. It turned out we were woefully ignorant in such matters.

Did you know that it takes 200 cocoons to make one kimono? That’s 200 miles of silk! Did you also know that silk worms keep their cocoons together with spit? Yup. Spit. The only way to unravel a cocoon without destroying the threads is to boil them in hot water, which dissolves the spit, leaving the thread loose.


The best part was when he explained that different patterns could only be made in specific cities. This was established for a few reasons. The first was a financial monopoly within the silk industry, the second was to ensure the authenticity of a pattern, but the best reason was because this meant the Shogun could use Ninja spies, undercover… (Yes! I said it! Ninja spies! Real ones), to deliver the fabric to each of the cities. 

When they arrived, they would also gather intelligence that aided the Shogun. Just in case I got some of this explanation wrong, I will admit that I was a little confused about the whole Shogun thing, but I guarantee that the whole Ninja thing is dead accurate! Silk seems so much cooler now!

After our lecture we went back downstairs and created our own little masterpiece. It turns out it takes some skill!


All in all, an exciting day that I would highly recommend if you happen to have a free afternoon in Tokyo.